Our sailing home takes us, Scott and Kathy Erwin to travel the world one island at a time. Come along on this adventure to learn, or join Kathy’s Yoga, and explore and see the world.
Canvas sewing project maybe #15, but I have lost count. The truth of it is I am a hobbyist, plain and simple. Not as much as I am the lover of my natural world, but a close second. To immerse myself in a project and fully drift away in creating something from nothing, is bliss. I am not an artist, and don’t care to follow directions, funny huh? I create!
My projects aren’t perfect but they are mine and I am proud to have made them. I am a life long learner, finding great happiness in the process of a new challenge. This week was all about my canvas project of making a UV paddle board bag, all 11.3 feet of it! The last two covers I bought were wrecked by UV within a few months. A good cruiser friend of mine Chrissy, sold me a bolt of Grey Top Notch fabric, amazing fabric btw, but impossible to get out here in the islands. This challenge had perfect timing, since we had a bit of weather for hunkering down and Scott was down for the count with a bad cough. Sewing for me is quite therapeutic, gives me inner peace and energy at the same time! Now off to see the sunset.
Good friends from Atascadero come for a visit on Sea Bella. Penny and Steve Crawford do a write up about their time here in Huahine:
“A huge thank you to Kathy and Scott Erwin aka SeaBella. Experiencing a tad-bit of the sailing lifestyle with you both was beyond what we could have imagined. So many laughs, so much snorkeling, eating, drinking, and did I mention a few boat lumps and bumps lol. We are forever grateful for this once in a lifetime experience. Who knows… maybe another adventure down the “road” in our future.The French Polynesian island of Huahine did not disappoint! Getting to experience 6 days on the Erwins sailboat was nothing less than spectacular. The friendship, laughter, snorkeling, island adventures, local peoples traditions, a few boat boo boos, and the whole lifestyle is hard to express in words. We are forever grateful for this incredible experience!”
You never know who you will meet out at quiet and remote anchorages. When in Nuka Hiva, Marquesas, one hot and humid day, I got a floaty and a beer and I drifted awhile around the small bay.
I hear a voice with a strong German accent “Kathy Erwin, hello there”. I drift over to a beautiful lady on a beautiful Amel Sailboat. She says you are Kathy on Sea Bella. I did a double take, confused how she knew me.
Jutta Birfelder
She introduced herself as Jutta, on SV Alila. She mentioned the cruising app called Noforeignland, and found Sea Bella and Scott and I. We chatted and instantly became friends. For the next 3 months we chatted, shared meals together with Scott and her fun partner Mike, went on hikes, enjoyed the cultural events of Mataava and yes, of course she came to my beach yoga sessions. What gems you meet out here! Plus the other fun people in the video, great new friends!
Making earrings
Turns out, Jutta is a YouTuber, conducting interviews of fellow cruisers all over the world. Next thing I know Scott and I are being interviewed. Take a look, enjoy a different side of our lives… maybe even like her channel.
By the way, I highly recommend the sailing app that I mentioned above to any sailor or future sailor wanting to connect with others, plus many other perks like hikes, locations of great snorkel spots, good shopping, gas and dingy docks… see below.
Two highlights of the Tahiti airport anchorage were watching the sealife under the boat and enjoying Moorea sunsets! We stayed a week then moved on to Huahine. A very favorite society island.
Our one year visa in French Polynesia is quickly coming to an end, bittersweet but we are ready. Our time here has been amazing, as most of you have seen and heard. The 3 Archepeligo’s have been unique in their own way, so it’s quite hard to pick a favorite. The Marquesas were all about the people and the rich jungles. The Tuomotus were all about the water clarity, diving, and coconut sandy beaches. The Societies have a French vibe, with many cruisers, beautiful lagoons but high fees in Bora Bora. I did hold a yoga class at a neighborhood park for a few interested cruisers and locals.
There were 8 islands overall that we visited twice, so that kind of says something about how special they are.
In Tahiti, we wrapped up some boat projects, stocked up on essentials, planned ahead, and the best part was partnering up with cruiser friends again! In about 3 weeks, we will clear out of immigration (heading West). Tomorrow we head to Huahine, then pit stops in Tahaa, maybe Bora Bora and Maupiti.
Tahanea, Tuamotu
What a difference 500 miles can make from the towering mountains of the Marquesas (Fatu Hiva) to the cool blue waters of the Tuomotus (Tahanea). The 3.5 day passage brings huge changes and we loved to get snorkeling again. We are learning more about flying this drone all the time. Take a look at our YouTube sailing, diving and yoga videos.
Making my own breads, yogurts, tortillas and muffins have been a fun new way to provide staples for Scott and I. Often breads are not to be found at the small island stores. I wonder, how do they make a sandwiche? Homemade baked goods are fun to bring to cruiser parties or as gifts for the village locals. We keep a sourdough “mother” which was given to me from a cruiser friend in Mexico and has provided us well over 50 or loaves! It’s also difficult to find or store packaged yeasts.
Making my own yogurt has also been key, not only does it reduce my plastic trash, it’s versatile and a good staple ingredient for other recipes. Storing large amounts of yogurt also takes up valuable refrigerator space. All I need for making yogurt is powdered milk, easily found and easily stored, and 1 small thermos (oh, and a thermometer)
Another idea I considered was having a small hydroponic garden for a few favorite herbs and sprouts. Fresh greens were the hardest to find in remote islands. I have dappled in this area, since it’s a major land hobby of mine and I come from a family of gardeners. But, nonetheless, it’s quite difficult on a boat. Why hydroponics? Well, having a plant with dirt doesn’t do well while healing sideways, but water only spills and dries up, no mess at all. Hey, we live on the water. My last batch of basil and rosemary got scorched in the direct sun, so back to the drawing board I go. Currently, I don’t have any plants, unless you count my very tiny cactus.
I have dappled in pickling, jarring and drying foods these last 2 years. But, since the mason jars/lids are difficult to find, I decided on mostly storing cheap canned or frozen veggies instead, I know, yuck! I can hardly complain though.
I had learned about pressure canning and was quite successful, only took me one full day! Since I knew we would spend a year in the French Polynesian islands, where meats are pricey and some hard to find, I started my research. It paid off! We had many delicious home made lasagnes, meatballs and stews during the 6 months spent in the remote Tuamotus Atolls. In Mexico, I had made 14 jars total of pork and beef, but the best was italian sausage.
My biggest answer to storing foods while on a boat: Ziplocks! Bulky storage containers often are not airtight and don’t fit well in small fridges, freezers or lockers. Since ziplock bags are hard to find out in the islands, I bought many and use and reuse them until they are so thin or have a tear. Even then, I tend to use them, double bagged style. I was raised to be thrifty, which now comes in very handy!
Provisioning and prepping foods while living on a boat in remote places is quite a challenge but a fun one that I have embraced. My Mom always said “cook with love” which proved to be great advice. Cooking on a boat is a topic for another time, but shopping, storing, and keeping foods and drinks cold is the tricky topic of the day, especially in remote locations and foreign countries. I feel I have done well so far, but have only experienced Mexico and French Polynesia. Learning to be resourceful and having flexibility in the foods you eat are the main key.
That’s about a wrap for the day, no pun intended!!
Some anchorages just have that super strong sense of community, it’s hard to pull anchor and leave. We have been so blessed in this small bay named Hooumi. 4 boats are our good friends from Mexico, 6 boats are new friends we met a few months ago here in FP. We feel like such family, with daily activities loosely organized by different people every day. The spontaneity and variety is just so cool. 19 friends showed up for my Yoga and meditation this morning, hugs of gratitude all around. Yesterday, some of us dingied up the river to a little village, bought a few staples and did cannon balls in the clear and refreshing river water with the local children.
We all laughed and drummed ourselves silly the other night at the beach. Bonfires and s’mores are always fun. One boat had us all over for Taro Card readings and appetizers. There was a scotch tasting on SV Captain Music. Last week, Ingrid made enough Poke Bowl to share with us all. Luckily, English is our common language but we’re from 6 or so countries. It really doesn’t matter the age, socio economics, political opinion, religion, how long cruising, what country you launched from or where you are headed. We all have one thing in common, a positive outlook with an adventurous spirit. Mind you, not everyday is easy and fun, but we are in it together.
To Name a few: Joanne Pilkington and Scott, Jutta Birfelder and Mike. Michelle Fetkenhour and Jeff. Margot McKirdy and Elliott. Bruce Balan and Alene. Ingrid and Adam Lewis. Emma Aingé and Dan. Candice Deal and Jason Deal. Jan, Inge, Lauren and Liam.
My 15 day Sailors Yoga Camp is now compete!
YOGA CAMP
Testing out my new skills was easy and fun with my cruiser friends. I tried new poses, transitions, meditation themes and even stumbled my way with chatty children and a few locals at my side. The last day I was presented with a special card signed by all the Hooumi Bay sailors. Then they performed a ‘Trust Experience’ for me, where 20 students lifted me up, wow I felt so loved and cared for. I’m feeling inspired to do Yoga Around the World!
Scott was able to spend a week in Texas and a week and half in California. “Spending a fantastic Thanksgiving day with Family in Texas! Nothing like excellent family, food and wine! Anarchy Wine Co. (Darn cold here in the states) 😉
Happy Thanksgiving to all those missing Thanksgiving down under in the South Pacific and south of the border!!
California visit for Kathy was so, so special, two relaxing and perfect weeks. “I want to thank my family and friends for taking GREAT care of me and providing healthy land time. A much needed break from the rolly boat, heat and just missing my CA peeps. I did manage to get important check ups, select better sunglasses (and back ups) find essentials like Kirkland nuts and peanut butter, and basically enjoy normal life for awhile. I started in Santa Cruz on Christmas Day with a lovely time with Mom, Roland and my brothers’ family. I was lucky to borrow Mom’s car to drive to Fresno to couch it with my son. My daughter came over and we 3 headed to the Sierra foothills for a few days of R and R. Cooking amazing meals, singing on the Kareoke machine, silly card games, fun dance pad and mostly enjoying a large, flat, non moving home, lol. Some big hugs and a few tears later….”
I was off to San Luis Obispo to visit our rental and hang with great friends! My final 4 days I spent back at Mom’s in Santa Cruz with my Aunt, Uncle, Sister in Law and Dad. Overall, an action packed and special time for all. Soon, I make the 24 hour long journey (only an 8 hour flight over the great Pacific) returning to home on the water in Marquesas and best of all, back to my Hubby Scott.
But then, guess what happened?!.!?
Homeless Day in Tahiti
…and it sucked. I was grumpy. 😦I had hardly any sleep on the red eye, and our new foil board was not at baggage claim! It’s lost!😮Whine, whine, I know it. The nice, but French speaking attendant, insisted I report it right then, so it can hurry on the next the plane. But, it’s now 6am and I miss my connection flight to Nuku Hiva, by just 2 minutes. AAAH! 😱😱😱And still no board. 😡So, I book a new flight for 4:30 am tomorrow, book a close by lodge, and ditch my heavy bags in this sortof hotel (but-check in is at 4pm!) What to do allllll day???? Homeless for a day. I find a bus riding into downtown, mind you it only now 7:00am. 😳Searching for an open coffee shop like a homeless person, on very tired feet and sluggish mind, I sit for a needed Quiche Lorraine. Shoot!My phone doesn’t seem to have data or cellular and has only 35% battery. I tried plugging it in, but the outlets aren’t compatible! 😭NOT MY DAY! I wander from closed shop to closed shop and find the famous Papeete Market, but “closed on Tuesdays”, I mainly just wanted a bathroom. 😤UG. Getting a bit lost without any GPS, I find a park bench, to rest, feeling very homeless by now. I brushed my teeth in the public bathroom, thanking the French for having clean water. It’s 9am. 😖I only have 7 more hours to kill wandering aimlessly. I see a great book store, super right? I can sit and read for a few hours, but, no. Only French books here. 🤪Next stop, find the Air Tahiti office to file a claim. They send me to Air Tahiti Nui, 6 blocks away. Pointing a finger at each other I think. I would call… but no cell. It starts raining buckets, 🙈UG! One of those days! I am soaked within minutes, I hop on a bus to stay dry, head east, no clue where to. 😩I am kind of familiar with this city, thankfully. I explored around a favorite grocery store, bought some tops, and ate some yogurt and bananas. I managed to get my phone back running, after 45 minutes with TMobile. 😳I do have the time though, tons of time! I continued walking aimless about. (It’s, only noon) I will end this lengthy drama with a positive…you know me. I bought Scott some onions and potatoes, put them in my purse. Our anchorage town in Nuka Hiva is all out. (more heavy items for my carry on) grump, grump, grump 😁
(The next day)
When I go to check in at 4:00 am, the lost baggage office is open and there is our new Foil Board!
December 2023, a few cruiser friends and I (Emma on SV Margot and Joanne from SV Fundango) thought up a special way to give back to the little town we all are staying in for a few months. Taiohae Bay is in Nuku Hiva, in the Marquesas Archipelago of French Polynesia. I counted 150 sailboats all anchored in the bay, most are staying for the month to see the Festival Traditions of Matavaa. See my other posts. Since we are all just guests of their bay, I thought it would be a caring idea to “give back”, especially since the locals have graciously hosted us all and included us in all the their dances and singing events of the festival.
We went to the local Tourism office and inquired about the local elementary schools. We shared our idea of bringing each child of the town a wrapped treat, goodie, or cookie. We were shown gratitude and a sense of appreciation.
There was a bit of red tape and logistics, with one school being Catholic, but with perseverance and organization the plans began working out well. Once we were approved, we made plans to go to 2 elementary schools, all 40 of us, and hand deliver treats to 320 youngsters, their teachers, food service helpers, principals, the mayor and even a few parents.
A few days beforehand, the three of us zipped around the bay all day asking local cruisers to participate in this “giving back”. Most of them loved the idea and wanted to join us and wanted to go to town to hand out treats.
So, the date was set for the last day of school. We gathered at the dingy dock, discussed some logistics (in French and English) and went walking into the town with goodie bags in tote. This was a fun activity for us and an important little treat for the town. The children were so surprised. They haven’t seen so many Caucasian faces ever probably. They treats were a hit. Our photo and story was even posted in the local news.
Well, you ask if I’m lonely here in Nuku Hiva? Scott’s been gone 2 weeks and ….I miss him. But, I am never lonely or bored. With so much to do on and off the boat, and with so many past friends, new friends and friends yet to be made, I rarely have time to realize the quiet. (Maybe a bit weird to have all 44 feet of Sea Bella to myself, haha.) I go on hikes everyday, pet the random horses, study for my Yoga Certification, shop for yummy fruit, learn the local history, play chess online, do some sewing projects, and the best part: visit friends. I look forward for Scotts return next week, to share in all this island goodness. He will be here for the big Marquesan festival, Matavaa. And, yes, it will then be my turn to travel to California next month, to see my kids, family and friends, I am so excited about that.
Most horses here are small, young, thin, and tethered to a 20 foot rope. Unfortunately they are also on the menu. 6 countries represented, not counting that we are in FP
Huge papayas
My favorite move to date, I am black by the way.
My latest project, dry bags for cruisers. It rains a lot here.
Not just your average anchorage; Hakatea Bay (aka and formerly Daniel’s Bay) Nuku Hiva. (The most remote Island in the world). This is the site of Season 4 of the TV series “Survivor” and also the last known case of Cannibalism in the Marquesas. How recent you might ask? Recent enough that I think the guy is still in jail. lol.
This amazing place was the Royal center of Nuku Hiva for over 1000 years. Up to 20,000 natives lived in this valley until Small Pox and other introduced diseases wiped out thousands, in past centuries. Now and over the past 80 years less than an average of 10 people live in the valley.
Video tour of the Royal Palace
As we hiked up the Royal trail to the waterfall we came across dozens of Pae Pae’s or foundations of ancient buildings. We are amazed that they are basically in the process of returning to earth. Over grown jungle and trees growing through the middle of many of these ruins. Archaeology has shown that in some cases the heads of families members or warriors have been buried under rocks in the Pae Pae’s after the tribe or leaders ate the eyes and brain out of the skulls. (To take their visions and knowledge). We didn’t move any stones!
Boy was that waterfall loud!A rendition of the village a few hundred years ago.2 Tiki’s
The local family that is still in the valley cooked us lunch and filled our bags with fruit upon our return.
It’s very difficult to explain the day and what we saw. All I can say is I can’t believe this place isn’t a museum. Oh yeah, the water fall was cool too. The only way to get here is by boat. Ya have to see it to believe it…..
Our World Adventure 